Quebec Improvements - The Fortress City of America - Quebec as it was and as it will be - Lord Dufferin's Plans for the Preservation of its Historic Monuments

 

By James MacPherson LeMoine

 

[Originally published by the Literary and Historical Society of Quebec in Transactions, New Series, No. 13 (1879)]

 

“Many a vanished year and age,

And tempest's breath and battle's rage,

Have swept o'er Corinth; yet she stands

A fortress formed to Freedom's hands.

The whirlwind's wrath, the earthquake's shock;

Have left untouched her hoary rock,

The key-stone of a land.”—

 

The Siege of Corinth.—LORD BYRON.

 

It is scarcely necessary to point out to the reader how pertinently and forcibly these memorable lines apply to the world-renowned fortress of America. In natural situation and varied history, there are so many strong points of resemblance between the ancient city of Quebec and the Corinth which Lord Byron has immortalized in his mellifluous and undying verse, that they must be our excuse for quoting the noble bard on the present occasion. This occasion is specially one, when, as a journal having at heart the advancement of the grand old place, the preservation of its peculiar character of interest to the world at large, and the enhancement of that veneration in which it is held all over the civilized globe, we deem it our duty to make generally public the enlightened measures of improvement and embellishment, coming from the very highest and most influential quarter in the country, of which Quebec may, in the poet's language, not be inaptly termed “the keystone,” and which, when carried out, will not only preserve to the Gibraltar of America its historic landmarks, its interesting associations and traditions, and its exceptional character of quaintness and antiquity, but subserve the realization of those more modern ideas of progress, which fail to see that it is much easier to tear down than to build up. For this commendable purpose, we have taken the trouble, at considerable expense, to present, to the friends of the MORNING CHRONICLE on this Christmas morning, correct illustrations of the embellishments and improvements proposed and contemplated by His Excellency, the present able and distinguished Governor General of Canada, for the idea of which the citizens of Quebec in particular, and the civilized world in general, cannot be too thankful to the noble lord, as well as for the hearty interest which he has ever taken in the ancient capital of New France, and all that concerns the welfare and prosperity of its people. To our kindred race in the neighboring republic, one in blood, as they are one in desire with us for the religious preservation of our historic monuments, we may specially commend the present subject; and, in order that they may acquire a proper understanding of it, we quote from our columns, in the issue of the Quebec MORNING CHRONICLE, of the 22nd November last:

 

“If the scheme of city improvement and embellishment submitted by his Excellency the Governor-General, for the consideration of the City Council, and briefly outlined in our issue of Saturday, may be said to have taken the citizens somewhat by surprise, we belive we are correct in interpreting the popular feeling on the subject, when we state that the inhabitants of the ancient capital are, and will ever be deeply grateful to Lord Dufferin for the deep and continuous interest which he takes in Quebec, the flattering preference he shows for it on all occasions, and the present signal manifestation of his good will and desire to promote its importance by the enhancement of its historic and scenic attractions, without very materially adding to the burthens of its tax-paying population. It surely must be a subject of general pride and congratulation to find such distinguished and influential patronage extended to our good old city, and to look forward to the prospect of future advantage which support in such a quarter is certain to open up for it. There is no denying that if the scheme proposed by His Excellency be carried out in its entirety, in connection with other improvements actually in contemplation, Quebec will not only have its modern requirements more than satisfied, but will become the show city of this continent, to which thousand of strangers will annually flock to view a grandeur of scenery unsurpassed on this side of the Atlantic, conjointly with the relics of an eventful and heroic past for which the outside world has a special veneration. Familiarity, it has been truly said, breeds contempt, and this self-same familiarity with our crumbling fortifications has engendered among ourselves an underestimate of the value attached by strangers to them, and to the other mementoes of by-gone days, which abound in our midst. Not altogether improperly, outsiders regard Quebec as common property, a bit of the old world transferred to the new, tucked away carefully in this remote corner of the continent, and to be religiously preserved from all inonoclastic desecration, especially from that phase of the latter, which goes by the name of modern improvement with some, but passes for wanton vandalism with others. They wish to have to say still of Quebec at the present day, as Longfellow sang of Nuremberg, that it is a—

 

“Quaint old town of toil and traffic,

Quaint old town of art and song,

Memories haunt thy pointed gables,

Like the rocks that round them throng.”

 

In addition to being the oldest city in North America, Quebec, historically speaking, is also the most interesting. The traditions and associations, which cling to its beetling crags and hoary battlements, and cluster around it battlefields, monuments and institutions, are numerous and important in the eyes of the world. History speaks from every stone of its ruined walls, and from every standpoint of its surroundings; antiquity is stamped upon its face, and quaintness is its chief characteristic. In the computation of our yearly income, the revenue we derive from these attractions, coupled with those supplied by the magnificent panorama of Nature with which the city is encircled, forms no inconsiderable item. We imagine it will not be denied by any rational person that the stream of travel which tends this way with the return of each fine season, as surely as that season itself, is an immense advantage to the totality of the inhabitants, for it is a well recognized truth that where any special class, trade or calling in a community is benefitted, the whole are benefitted by the increase of the circulating medium. It is therefore a self evident duty on our part to do all we reasonably can to preserve to Quebec its character of interest and antiquity, which is much prized by the rest of the world, and is so valuable in a material point of view to ourselves. We should also, if possible, exert ourselves in the same direction to so enhance, by artificial means, the splendid scenic advantages we offer to admiring sight-seers, that like the Neapolitans, when they speak of Naples to the European traveller, we may tell the American to see Quebec and die. At the same time such modern improvements as can be effected without serious detriment to our historical monuments, such as our gates and ramparts, should not be neglected, to advance the growth and embellishment of the city and to facilitate communication between its older and newer parts. This is just what Lord Dufferin's plans and views with regard to Quebec propose to do. We have been favored with a sight of the admirably executed plans and designs, prepared by Mr. Lynn, the eminent civil engineer commissioned by Lord Dufferin to carry out his intentions, and who, it will be remembered, accompanied His Lordship and the Minister of Militia last summer on their examination of the military works and grounds. It will also be recalled that it was with considerable reluctance that His Excellency consented at all to the removal of the old gates and the cutting through of the walls on the western side of the fortress, and that it was only his well-known consideration for the wishes and requirements of the people of Quebec that induced him to concur in the demand for increased facility of communication between the city and its suburbs. According to Mr. Lynn's plans, it is easy to see that His Excellency still adheres to his original ideas in the matter, to some extent, while desiring at the same time to meet the popular wish and necessity. It is proposed that all the gates, with the exception of Hope Gate, or rather the present apertures, are to be bridged or arched

 

over, in viaduct fashion, with handsome bridges either in iron or stone, so as to preserve the continuity of the fortifications. In this way, the openings in the ramparts, including that for the extension of Nouvelle street, will remain as free to traffic as they are at present. St. John's Gate is, of course, included with the others in this category. All the bridges or arches over the gates will be flanked with picturesque Norman turrets, of different size and design, such as are frequently seen in old French and German castles. Hope Gate, it is contemplated simply to flank with such turrets, some twelve more of which will also at different other points adorn and relieve the monotonous effect of the long dead line of wall from Palace Gate to the Parliament Buildings. His Excellency next proposes a boulevard or continuous drive around

 

the entire fortifications, commencing at the Durham Terrace, which he wishes to have prolonged westwards to the King's Bastion, and thus make it one of the most magnificent promenades in the world, with an unequalled view of river, mountain, crag and island scenery, and taking in both the upper and lower portions of the harbour. Thence the boulevard will continue, rising by an easy incline to the foot of the Citadel, and thence will run along the crest of the cliff at the foot of the walls round to the rough ground or Cove field, through which it will be carried, following the line of the fortifications, crossing St. Louis street and entering the Glacis on the north side of that thoroughfare; the square of which comprised between St. Louis street, St. Eustache street, the extension of Nouvelle street and the walls, His Excellency wishes to have formed into a park or ornamental pleasure

 

ground, communicating with the Esplanade by means of a sally-port through the rampart. Through this park, the boulevard will be continued down across St. John street and around through the gardens and grounds of the Artillery Barracks, to Palace Gate, crossing in its passage three other openings in the fortification wall to give direct communication with the city to D'Aiguillon, Richelieu and St. Olivier streets, such openings being bridged over the same fashion as the others. From Palace Gate the boulevard will follow the present line of Rampart street round to the Parliament Buildings, in rear of which it will pass, and then traverse Mountain Hill over a handsome iron bridge flanked with turrets, on the side of old Prescott Gate, to Fortification Lane, in rear of the Post Office, which will be enlarged and graded up, back again to the Durham Terrace or original point of departure, thus making a

 

continuous, unbroken circuit of the entire fortifications, and providing a public promenade that will undoubtedly be unsurpassed by anything of the sort in the world, and cannot fail to attract thousands of profitable visitors to Quebec. The cost of the undertaking would not be so enormous, as might appear at first sight. It is estimated that His Excellency's capital idea in this respect could be carried out at an outlay of ninety thousand dollars, of which the city would only be asked to contribute thirty thousand, the Federal authorities making up the difference. But His Excellency does not seem satisfied to stop short even at this work of embellishment in his desire to promote the interest of our good old city. He wishes that it should become also

 

the abode of the representative of royalty in Canada, at least during the summer season, and, in order that it should enjoy to the fullest all the importance and material benefit likely to flow from this circumstance, he further proposes to have a regular and fitting vice regal residence erected for himself on the Citadel, to be styled the Castle of St. Louis or Chateau St. Louis, and to revive the ancient splendors of that historic residence of the early governors of New France. We have also seen the plans and sketches of this building and must admit that, if constructed, it will of itself materially enhance the appearance of Quebec, and, when

 

taken in conjunction with the proposed new Parliamentary and Departmental buildings and new Court House, will contribute largely to the scheme of the city embellishment. As Quebec is approached by water or from any point whence the Citadel is visible, it will be a striking object, as it will stand forth in bold relief to the East of the present officers' quarters, with a frontage of 200 feet and a depth partly of 60 and partly of 100 feet, with a basement, two main storeys and attics, and two towers of different heights, but of equally charming design. The style of architecture is an agreeable “melange” of the picturesque Norman and Elizabethan. The intention is, we believe, to have the quoins and angle stones of cut stone and the filling in of rough ashlar—the old stone from the fortifications being utilized for that purpose. The estimated cost of the structure is $100,000; but we have not heard whether the city will be asked to contribute to it. We are inclined, however, to think not, as it would be solely a Dominion work, for Dominion purposes, and erected upon Dominion property. Such, as far as we understand it, from the plans, is Lord Dufferin's very excellent and praiseworthy project for the improvement and embellishment of Quebec, and we are satisfied that as His Lordship appears to have made up his mind in its favor, it will not fail to be carried out in due time. As to when it will be commenced, of course, we are not in a position to speak; but when it does, the expenditure of money it will entail and the employment it will give to the labouring classes and tradesmen generally, apart from any other of the favourable considerations we have pointed out, will be very opportune and acceptable to the people of the ancient capital. In bringing the matter forward so prominently, Lord Dufferin has done a great thing for Quebec, for which its inhabitants cannot thank him too warmly. It only remains for the city to meet his generous proposition in a like spirit of liberality, and it will go hard with old Stadacona if, between the North Shore Railway, the graving dock, the tidal docks, the harbor improvements of all kinds, and the proposed new buildings for the Legislature, public departments and the law courts, the condition of its people be not before long materially bettered and the appearance of things considerably improved. We should, perhaps, add that in the general scheme of Corporation improvements, in addition to those mentioned in our report of the City Council in Saturday's issue, are included the project of a stairs, leading directly from St. George Street, on the ramparts, to Sault-au-Matelot street, in the vicinity of the Quebec Bank, which would obviate the present tedious detour for foot passengers by Mountain Hill; of a

street parallel to St. Paul street, and of an elevator for vehicles and foot passengers from the Champlain Market up the Cliff and underneath Durham Terrace to the North end of the Laval Normal School.”

 

For the information of outsiders, we may add that since the above was written, the City Council of Quebec has not only responded nobly to His Excellency's suggestions, but the Local Government has gone a step further and made provision, as far as comes within its purview, to co-operate in carrying out of Lord Dufferin's admirable designs.

 

It is scarcely necessary on this occasion, to recall the eventful history of Quebec, but, as the present year brings about a memorable anniversary, interesting alike to ourselves and to our republican neighbours, it may be well to allude to it. We refer to the centennial of the death, at the very portals of this fortress, of a gallant foe, the American General Montgomery. It is not our desire by any means to rekindle the rancors and strifes of that distant period; and, to prove this, on the 31st of December instant, exactly one hundred years since Arnold and

Montgomery were thundering at our gates, and the latter was shedding his life-blood amid the snows at Près-de-Ville, the military authorities—descendants of the men who so bravely withstood the attack—and the citizens of Quebec generally, intend to commemorate in becoming manner the important event. There, commingling together in perfect harmony, will be found the representatives of the two great mother nations, who contended so long and so bitterly for sovereignty in the New World, as well as of that young, but vigorous offshot of Great Britain, which is now personified in, the United States. Beneath the folds of the flag of England, all these will join to do honor to the memory of a brave man, who, although a foe, was not the less an estimable gentleman and a gallant soldier. On such an occasion, it is needless to point out the additional interest with which Quebec will be invested. It would be superfluous also to more than briefly advert to the main facts in the history of the oldest city of America, from the days when Jacques Cartier first discovered the country, and Champlain planted the cross of Christianity on the banks of the mighty St. Lawrence, down through the eventful years, when the young and struggling colony had to battle for dear life with the savage Iroquois, when the power of France was launched forth from its battlements to harass the New England colonies, or to hurl defiance at Britain's attempts at conquest from the mouths of Frontenac's cannon, down to the days when Wolfe and Montcalm struggled for the mastery, with so fatal an ending for both these illustrious men and one so disastrous to France's tenure of power on this side of the Atlantic—down, we may add, to our own less troublous and remarkable times.

 

The limits of our present space will not permit our entering into such details just now; but we may simply remind the reader that, from a military point of view, Quebec has been ever regarded as occupying the strongest natural position, next to Gibraltar, in the entire world. Hence the continued and sanguinary struggle for its possession between two of the greatest nations of the old world, and, later on, between Great Britain and the States of the American Union. It has in its day successfully and unsuccessfully withstood many sieges, now at the hands of the savage aborigines of the country, and now at those of their more civilized brethren. From its foundation down to a century ago, its history has been mainly characterized by warfare and bloodshed, stirring events of flood, and field, and military glories, which are alike claimed by the descendants of two great races, who form its present population. Turning from this aspect of the ancient city, it must also be remembered that for two centuries it was the city whence France exercised an astonishing sovereignty over a gigantic territory extending from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the shores of that noble river, its magnificent lakes, and down the Mississippi to its outlet below New Orleans; and, whence, in the assertion of the supremacy of the Gallic lily, the missionary pioneered the path of the soldier, in those benevolent plans for the religious instruction and conversion of the savages, which at one time distinguished the policy of the early Governors of New France. In fine, as we have already stated, history speaks from every stone of its frowning battlements, from every tortuous winding of its antiquated streets, from the number and age of its institutions of religion, charity and education, from its quaint buildings, and generally from the many monuments and relics of an eventful past, which crowd each other within its hoary walls. All these it is the commendable desire of Lord Dufferin not only to carefully preserve, but to improve as far as possible, without obstructing the growth and advanced ideas of modern Quebec, as will be more readily gathered from the illustrations of his designs which we present to our readers this morning, hoping with all our heart to see them carried out at an early date, so that we may still further strengthen the claim of the interesting and venerable city of Champlain to its present device—Natura fortis, industria crescit.

 

THE OLD FORTIFICATIONS OF QUEBEC.

 

BY J. M. LEMOINE, AUTHOR OF “MAPLE LEAVES”

 

One is safe in dating back to the founder of the city, Champlain, the first fortifications of Quebec. The Chevalier de Montmagny, his successor, added to them, and sturdy old Count de Frontenac, improved them much, between 1690 and 1694. Under French rule, Le Vasseur, de Calliere, de Lery, Le Mercier, Pontleroy, either carried out their own views as to outworks or else executed the plans devised by the illustrious strategist Vauban.

 

The historian Charlevoix thus describes, in 1720, what the fortifications were in 1711:

 

“Quebec is not regularly fortified, though, for a long time past, efforts have been made to turn it into a strong place. The town, even with its present defences, cannot easily be taken. The port is provided with two bastions, which in the high tides are nearly flush with the water: that is about twenty-five feet above low water mark. During the Equinox, the tide reaches to this height. A little above the bastion, to the right, a half-bastion has been constructed, which runs into the rock, and higher up, next to the Gallery of the Fort, there are twenty-five pieces of cannon, forming a battery. A small square fort, which goes under the name of the Citadel, is higher up, and the paths from one fortification to the other are very steep. On the left side of the port, along the shore, until the River St. Charles, there are good batteries of guns and a few mortars.

 

From the angle of the Citadel, facing the city, an oreillon of a bastion has been constructed, from which a curtain extends at right angles, which communicates with a very elevated cavalier, on which stands a fortified wind-mill. As you descend from this cavalier, and at the

distance of a musket shot from it, you meet first a tower flanked with a bastion, and at the same distance from it, a second. The design was to line all this with stone, which was to have had the same angles with the bastions, and to have terminated at the extremity of the rock, opposite to the Palace, where there is already a small redoubt, as well as one on Cape Diamond. Such was the state of the fortifications at Quebec in 1711. Such they are this year (1720), as may be seen by the plan in relievo that Mr. Chaussegros de Léry, Chief Engineer, sends this year home (to France), to be deposited with other plans in the Louvre. In fact, the King had been so pleased with this plan, that he sent out instructions, and the works were begun in June, 1720.

 

The fortifications commenced at the Palace, on the shore of the Little River St. Charles, and ended towards the Upper Town (the city walls then must have extended a little this side of St. Ursule Street), which they encircled and terminated at the heights, towards Cape Diamond. From the (Intendants) Palace, along the beach, a palisade had been erected, up to the Seminary fence (in Sault-au-Matelot quarter), where it closed in at the inaccessible rocks called the Sault-au-Matelot, where there was a three gun battery. There was also above thi3, a second palisade, terminating at the same point. The entrances to the city, where there were no gates, were protected by beams across and bogheads filled with earth, instead of gabions, crowned by small field pieces. The circuitous path from the Lower to the Upper Town, was intercepted by three different intrenchments of hogsheads and bags of earth, with a species of chevaux de frise. In the course of the siege, a second battery was constructed at the Sault-au-Matelot, and a third at the gate (Palace Gate,) which leads to the St. Charles. Finally, some small pieces of ordinance had been mounted about the Upper Town, and specially on a declivity, where a wind-mill had been erected as a cavalier—(on Mount Carmel, in rear of the old Military Hospital.")

 

The city had but three gates under French dominion: St. Louis, St. Jean[1] and Palace. General James Murray records in his diary of the Siege, the care with which on the 5th May, 1760, he had Palace gate closed, “Palais gate was shut up all but the wicket.”

Traces of the old French works are still plainly visible near the Martello Tower, in a line with Péreault's Hill, north of them. Under English rule, it will thus appear that the outer walls were much reduced.

 

PBESCOTT GATE, DEMOLISHED, AUGUST, 1871.

 

General Robert Prescott, had the lower town gate which bears his name, erected about 1797, and the outer adjoining masonry.

 

Judging from an inscription on the wall to the west of the gate, additions and repairs seem to have been made here in 1815.

 

A handsome chain gate intercepting the road to the citadel, was erected under the administration of the Earl of Dalhousie in 1827—also the citadel gate which is known as Dalhousie Gate. On the summit of the citadel, is erected the Flag Staff, wherefrom streams the British Flag, in longitude 71o 12' 44" west of Greenwith, according to Admiral Bayfield; 71o 12' 15" 5. o. according to Commander Ashe. It was by means of the halyard of this Flag staff, that General Theller and Colonel Dodge in October, 1838, made their escape from the citadel, where these Yankee sympathisers were kept prisoners. They had previously set to sleep the sentry, by means of drugged porter, when letting themselves down with the flagstaff rope, they escaped out of the city despite all the precautions of the Commandant Sir James MacDonnell, a Waterloo veteran.

 

 

HOPE GATE.

 

The following inscription on Hope Gate describes when it was erected :

 

HOPE GATE.

HENRICO HOPE

Copiarum Duce et provincial sub prefecto

Protegente et adjuvante

Extrueta,

Georgio III. Regi nostro,

Anno XXVI et salutis, 1786.

 

The martello Towers, named from their inventor in England, Col. Martello, date from 1805. They were built under Col. (General) Brock, and their erection, superintended by Lt. By,[2] afterwards the well known Lt. Col. By, the builder of the Rideau Canal in 1832, and founder of Bytown (now Ottawa.)

 

From an entry in the unpublished diary of the late Mr. James Thompson, overseer of Military Public Works at Quebec, in 1786, this inscription would be due to the action of the French Canadian citizens of Quebec, in appreciation of the condescension of General Hope in granting them a city gate at this spot.

 

“September 9th, 1786. Weather pleasant. The people employed as yesterday. This afternoon the masons finished laying the Facia to the gate. I think it was high time, tho' in fact it could be no sooner reasonably expected, not only from the hands we have got, but from our not having cut stone ready before hand to bring us forward. We have seven hands at it, four of them are artillery men who can hardly be called half bred masons, and one of our three civilians is only a stone layer. Thus, when we have a course of stones cut we lay it and set to cutting another, which makes the work exceedingly tedious. I am persuaded it will take us till some time in November, before we can close the pedement. The French inhabitants, in compliment to the commander in chief have requested to have something inscribed on a stone in this pediment to perpetuate his memory for his readiness in condescending to give the people a Gate in this quarter.”

 

The citadel was substituted to the detached works raised at different times by the French. The imperial Government in 1823, carried on the magnificent but costly system of defensive works, approved of by His Grace the Duke of Wellington.[3]

 

Charles Watterton[4] on his visit to Quebec, in 1824, viewing the magnificent citadel with a prophetic eye, asks whether the quotation from Virgil is not applicable.

 

Sic vos, non vobis 

 

The stone for this grand undertaking was conveyed from river craft in the St. Lawrence below, by machinery, on an inclined plane of which the remains are still extant.

 

ST. LOUIS GATE, DEMOLISHED, AUGUST, 1871.

St. Louis gate was originally built in 1694; it underwent considerable changes, until it received in 1823 its present appearance. It might have been, not improperly, called “The Wellington Gate,” as it forms part of the plan of defence selected by the Iron Duke.

An old plan of de Lery, the French engineer, in 1751, exhibits there, a straight road, such as the present; there, from 1823 to 1871, existed the labyrinth of turns so curious to strangers and so inconvenient for traffic.

 

PALACE GATE.

Palace gate was erected under French rule, and Murray, after his defeat, at Ste. Foye, 28th April, 1760, took care to secure it against the victorious Levi. In 1791, it was reported in a ruinous condition and was restored in its present ornate appearance, resembling, it is said, one of the gates of Pompeii, about the time the Duke of Wellington gave us our citadel and walls.